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( Dajing Ge; 259 Dajing Rd; admission Y5; 9am-4pm; Dashijie) Dating from 1815, this pavilion contains the only preserved section of the 5km-long city walls. They were originally erected in 1553, to protect the city against pirates, but were toppled in 1912. A Chinese-language-only exhibition on the history of the Old Town is on the ground floor, along with an interesting scale model depicting the walled district during the reign of Qing emperor Tongzhi. You can climb up to the restored battlements and wander through a collection of halls, but otherwise there’s not much to see.

Neighbourhood Walk: Old Offline map Google map Town

Start Chenxiangge Nunnery

End Shiliupu Fabric Market

Distance 1km

Duration Two hours

Begin by visiting the charming Chenxiangge Nunnery on Chen­xiangge Rd , a Buddhist retreat from the surrounding clamour.

Clarity attained, exit the temple and weave south down Wangyima Alley , a small and typical Old Town alley immediately facing you. Follow the alley, then turn west along Zhongwangyima Alley to follow Zihua Rd before turning south onto Houjia Rd .

Wander along Middle Fangbang Rd – once a canal and also known as Old Street – and browse for Tibetan jewellery, teapots and prints of 1930s poster advertisements. Alternatively, break for a pot of refreshing oolong Offline map Google map tea at the Old Shanghai Teahouse.

Head east down Old Street, passing the Yuyuan Bazaar, to pay your respects to the red-faced town protector at the Temple of the Town God .

Upon exiting, continue east down Middle Fangbang Rd and then turn north at the KFC onto Anren Street . Wend your way past the outdoor mah jong and Chinese chess matches, then turn east onto Wutong Rd and then south on Danfeng Rd , a pinched lane frequently dressed with hanging washing. Note the lovely old doorways on Danfeng Rd, such as the carved red-brick gateway at No Offline map Google map 193.

Exit Danfeng Rd, turning east onto Middle Fangbang Rd at the old stone archway ( si pailou ). Stroll down the boisterous shopping street, filled with snack stands, clothing shops and booming stereo systems. As long as the eastern part of town remains standing over the next few years, there are plenty of little alleyways to explore here, particularly off to the south. When you reach the end of Middle Fangbang Rd, cross Zhonghua Rd (which marks the eastern boundary of the old city wall) to the Shiliupu Fabric Market for a tailor-made shirt, dress or jacket.


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